As you may know,I recently went to Paris. Having had a particularly stressful few weeks what with the holidays and end of year custom text shipments and dealing with a health crisis with Aunt Louise, I really needed to get away. Do you understand that feeling when you need to get away, but you are afraid to acknowledge it in case it doesn't happen? That is how I felt.
The day before I was to leave, major decisions had to be made about Aunt Louise. These decisions are, of course, always monitored with the help of Mother. Need I say more about my stress level?
Thankfully, every single thing came together at about 11:15 AM and I was leaving for the airport at !2:00 PM. Although Mother did point out that my timing was rather bad. It turns out that my timing was good because Aunt Louise settled into her longterm care facility just fine. There weren't even any kidnappers lurking around.
I knew that this trip was going to have a different feel when I got to Philadelphia and the lady in the Envoy lounge asked if I would like to be moved to row 1. I am usually suspicious of "gifts" so hesitated for a moment, then remembered that row 1 is the row where the seats become beds. I couldn't say yes fast enough. It was also interesting because Elizabeth is the same lady who always checks me and I stand in her line even if there is a wait. On this occasion, several ladies were just sitting there and started taunting me that I should check in with them because Elizabeth was too old. I think they were kidding; however, I stayed with Elizabeth and it was worth it.
Just anticipating having a bed made me as giddy as if Warren Beatty was picking me at the airport and driving me to Provence for the weekend. And, after my crazy few days, it was the most wonderful feeling, after the pseudo-gourmet meal, to recline and actually sleep. My friend K has forbidden me to actually book Row 1 moving forward. She says that I can justify outlandish expenditures better than Dolly Parton at a wig convention. Indeed, I am already thinking. . .now if I only took ONE trip a year. . could I splurge on the bed? Nah, just thinking out loud.
I had a lovely couple of days at the Pavillon de la Reine, a small hotel on Place des Vosges and then I moved over to what I consider my Paris spot--the Sainte-Beuve.
I arrived on Saturday and, on Wednesday, I had that day that we all hope to have when we go on vacation--that absolutely perfect day that we always reflect on and that keeps us planning vacations because it is so sublime. On a slightly drizzly morning, I took a cab to Fauchon in the Place de la Madeleine from where I was going to stroll over to Le Meurice for lunch. I left plenty of time for procuring gourmet treats and strolling. I finished up with lots of time to spare--in fact, I had an hour to kill. What to do? Angelina for their legendary hot chocolate--no, too rich before lunch;more shopping--no, I didn't want to carry more bags; oh, there's the Ritz--what about a pre-lunch glass of champagne?
I am seated on the banquette where I have sat before and enjoyed a glass of the house champagne along with marcona almonds and a selection of olives. And a USA Today. There is hardly anyone there, so I can enjoy the coziness and understated decor all to myself. By the time I leave, folks are starting to come in, especially women wearing Hermes scarves tied in ways that I can never seem to pull off.
On to Le Meurice. This has to be one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the world. It is a grand room with large windows overlooking the Tuileries. There are four chandeliers, incredible Baroque art, and much, much gilt. It is probably the closest that I--or anyone--will ever come to eating in a palace. It is worth the $$ to just sit there. But, then, there is the view of the Tuileries which, in the winter light, is somber, but stunning.
I had told myself that, having had less than stellar meals last year when I ordered the Prix Fixe menus at fancy places, I would order a la carte. One look at the menu and I had to rethink that strategy as an appetizer was around $120 and a main course was around $150. I don't mind being self-indulgent, but I do have my boundaries.
Because I loved everything on "Le Dejeuner" and because almost everyone was ordering it, I had it as well. It was luscious and rich and memorable---just like one would imagine:
Vol-au-Vent a la tour de Nesle which was a lovely rich soup with escargots and mushrooms, slightly robust, but not overwhelming.
Filet de sole braise a joinville which had to be cooked twice because the chef was not happy with the first preparation and was served in a jus d'huitres that was light, but so flavorful
Fricassee de rognon de veau a la grainte de moutarde which were perfectly prepared veal kidneys served with incredible creamed potatoes. Never did I think that veal kidneys could be so delectable.
Moka-- served as a cake roll which was fabulous although I was starting to get very full because there had also been amuse-bouches, incredible bread, etc.
For the wine, I enjoyed, in addition to a glass of Bollinger, a glass of Chassagne Montrachet 2006 and a Chateauneuf du Pape "boisrenard", both of which were so unique in their tastes--woodsy and dank for the Montrachet and velvety and rich for the red.
Feeling incredibly blissful, I climbed into a cab and was transported back to the Sainte-Beuve where I wasted no time taking a long, restorative nap.
Around 8:00, I strolled over to a place where I had been the night before called Sensing. It is a new "anti-bistro" in Montparnasse, very modern in decor. I told le directeur that I had dined at Le Meurice for lunch. He invited me in and insisted that I have an appetizer sampler with only four tastes on it, a bit of cheese, and a frozen clementine souffle. The perfect end to my day.
Well, no, not the end. I strolled back to the hotel and encamped on a couch in front of a faltering, but lovely, fire with a glass of red wine and listened to my iPod to my heart's content. The next day, I slept until noon.
If snyone ever says to you, why would anyone take a vacation by themselves, I want you to tell them about this day because it was the standard. But, not because everything was so ritzy (no pun intended). It was because there were such unexpected delights as well as moments that I had anticipated for months. Everything came together and nothing was grating. It was like a day in a bubble which is a vacation should be.
And, just to bring the trip full circle, as I was boarding the plane to Miami from Philadelphia, who spots me but a dear friend who is an employee of the airlines, also heading back to MIA. He offers me a ride home which I gratefully accept. I come out of the baggage terminal as he pulls up. Anyone who has ever dealt with accepting a ride at MIA knows what a nightmare it can be. So, the ease of jumping into a waiting vehicle was, in itself, a small miracle.
I arrived at the triplex not mopey or sad, but invigorated by running into my friend and pondering how the unexpected serendipitous moments of this trip would be with me always.
More later.
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I'm so thrilled to hear that you had a restorative vacation. I would have given two limbs and a month-worth of naps to have shared that rognon de veau dish at le Meurice with you. Keep the reports coming.
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