Family of One Goes to Christmas Dinner

As previously reported, I have made sure these past few years that I have my own Christmas dinner, one that compares favorably with others that I have heard about in terms of cuisine and company. I take myself to my favorite restaurant, Eleven Madison Park, in New York City. I sit at "my" table, top level, closest to the windows. I yuck it up with almost everyone who is employed there. I have my book and my iPod. I reminisce with myself about the year just past. And, of course, I eat the delectable food stylings of Chef Daniel Humm and his remarkable staff.

I found this year to be an especially wonderful experience. I'm not exactly sure why. The folks in the restaurant are still over the moon about their four star rating from the New York Times, so the mood there is glorious. Chef Humm continues to challenge himself to create marvelous food. I felt fabulous, having enjoyed a successful work year and being in a good place, so to speak. On this particular evening, there were two experiences that made it a bit unique.

I have gotten to know most of the staff well, but had never had a chance to really talk with Will Guidara, the general manager, as he has been off on most of the nights that I visited the restaurant. I had heard great things about him from my dear friends, the Rs, and, indeed, had enjoyed chatting with him at a lovely lunch to which the Rs treated me the day before my dinner. I wanted to follow up on a couple of things that were mentioned, so looked forward to seeing him.

After a little while, I realized that I had spoken with almost everyone but Will. In the meantime, the fellow who seemed to spend most of his time downstairs kept coming over and asking if I needed anything. I was very dismissive of him. He had not buttoned the lower button of his blazer and I made a note to tell someone. I also could not understand why he kept leaving his station to come up to see me. I scoffed to myself that he must have seen all of us screaming with laughter and wanted to be a part of the fun. Well, he was not going to horn in on our party. He came by again and I picked up my book.

In a few minutes, I asked--where is Will? Oh, I was told, there he is and he has stopped by, but you are always preoccupied (what a lovely way to say that I was ignoring him). Oh, Lord Jesus, how rude could I be? I was horrified, particularly since we had engaged in such a lovely way just the day before. I could only chalk it up to the angle at which I was looking at him.

At any rate, he did return and we had a most delightful chat during which we discussed the various reasons that folks like to go to EMP--some for the incredible food, some for the beautiful dining room, some to be cosseted, some (like me) for the overall experience of being a part of something wonderful. It was during this exchange that the next wonderful thing happened.

On my way to the restaurant, I realized that I had left my reading glasses at Veselka when I was having bortsch and veal paprika for lunch. I stopped to buy another pair, but I really missed my original ones. I asked RK, one of the managers, to alert Sandra, a treasure of a maitre d', if she could call the restaurant and see if they had them. If so, I could jump in a cab and go down to the East Village and pick them up. I thought that calling from EMP might lend the request more credence than my trying to negotiate with the Ukrainian hostess.

Of course, you know what I am going to tell you. The lovely Sandra comes over to the table with my reading glasses on a tray! I nearly wept. Will was entranced as well. Even now, three weeks later, I still shake my head with awe at the kindness that did not need to be extended, but that simply was.

So, with all that excitement AND the laughs AND the ribaldry AND the exchanging stories, I need to remember that I did have an excellent meal-one of my favorites--

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin--cappucino with Peekytoe crab and celery root: one of my favorite dishes, so subtle in its textures, but so powerful in its saltiness and taste of the ocean

Foie Gras--mille feuille with big eyed tuna and watercress: an interesting juxtaposition of flavors that you think isn't going to work, but comes across amazingly well, especially with the textures of the foie gras and the tuna

"Winter in Provence"--black truffles, chevres frais, and potatoes: For this dish, a cooking table was rolled over and I, of course, had to comment that I did not realize Benihana influenced EMP. After Chef Fabien had cooked this dish for me, I almost had to lie down on the banquette. The combination of the various flavors--strong, bitter, soft, sweet--incredible. Although the dish did resemble a child's finger painting within seconds of presentation. A most memorable taste sensation.

Scottish Langoustines--poached with cauliflower, almonds, and raisins: delightful, subtle, discreet

Everglades Frogs Legs--sauteed with parsley and porcini custard:lovely in its simplicity, this dish is a tiny bit on the salty side, but I adored it.

Four Story Hill Farm Veal--braised veal cheeks with celery roots and black truffles: How could you go wrong? My favorite flavors in a robust, yet not overpowering, portion.

Fromage: Twig Farm Soft Tomme, Petit Sapin, Abbaye de Tamie, Cave Aged Gruyere

"Soda Pop"--Tangerine,grapefruit,pomelo, and lemon: a truly original rendition of that old favorite, pop rocks. Is there a more interesting feeling than the juxtaposition of exploding candies in your mouth while seated in a four star restaurant? I had two of this dessert.

What a Christmas dinner!