Sunday, April 18, 2010

Family of One Has the Chef's Special

I don't know about you, but sometimes when I have been traveling for a few days, I just get so weary of having to make a decision about what I am going to order, especially for dinner. Sometimes, when I run up against cuisine fatigue, I will use the hours before to think through what I want, especially if I have seen the menu. But, sometimes, I just am sick of reading menus and pondering what would be good. I have developed a new strategy that works pretty well. For restaurants where I know the chef (and sometimes even if I don't), I will call the restaurant and tell the reservationist to let the chef know that I will eat anything that he prepares (except, of course, for green peppers) and how many courses I would like. This never fails to cheer me as it gives me the feeling that I am going to a good friend's house for dinner, but I don't have to worry about bringing the wine.

This is an incredibly busy time of year for those of us in college publishing because this is the time that all of our customers (professors)choose the textbook that they will be using for fall. In my case, I work with sales reps and the professors to customize the books to their specific needs and, of course, all of the decisions are being made now, but there is only one of me to get all of the books prepared. I have learned to pace myself during this time and to take time for one fun hour or so a day.

I had a reservation for one at Anson's, one of my favorite haunts in Charleston where a new CIA-trained chef, Jeremy Holste, has recently taken over the kitchen. I met him on one of his first weeks there and we hit it off as we both love the Wreck (the fabulous fried seafood den on Shem Creek), sweet tea vodka, and, of course, almost anything edible.

Jeremy had sent me a few taste treats over my last visits that were not on the menu, so I had high hopes for a very lovely dinner. I was not disappointed and I was tickled to be served personally by Jeremy who would then sit down with me in my booth that will hold six and discourse for a few minutes. Here is what I had--

***Chilled cauliflower soup served over diced smoked salmon and tomatoes, very thin celery, and a tiny bit of chopped nut for texture. Outstanding.

***Perfectly prepared diver scallop (albeit a bit salty, but that was fine with me) and perfectly prepared ravioli--one of each with tiny bits of pea sprout, pancetta, and pearl onion

***Thin and tasty carpaccio covered with an array of wonderful tastes including something akin to a caponata, a green tomato relish, pickled garlic with pine nuts, and tiny bit of a mustard/mayonnaise combo. Each bite was unique, but none of it was cloying or overwhelming.

***Pan roasted tilefish with a fingerling potato or two served in a sauce with Anson's bacon and a hint of truffle

***Baked Alaska served over strawberry sauce.

I don't know if I would have ordered any of these taste sensations. I doubt it, since I am always drawn to the oysters and pork products at this delightful restaurant. But, what a marvelous way to rejuvenate my palate for a memorable meal.

And, of course, I was visited throughout the evening by the manager, the bartender, and the waiters whom I have grown to adore in the past couple of years. I have been going to Anson's for fifteen years, but it was never a restaurant where I felt like family. I love turning that corner.

And, of course, I can't wait to go back although, next time, the seven layers of heaven pork belly and cornmeal fried oysters may be calling my name.

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